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Troubleshooting Guide
Washer Shaking Violently on Spin?
8 Causes and What to Check
The spin starts, and the washer thumps, rattles or walks toward the middle of the room. Most of the time the fix is in the load or the feet, but some sounds mean a part is wearing out.
Quick answer: A washer shaking violently on the spin cycle is usually spinning an unbalanced load, standing unlevel, or, if it's new, still carrying its shipping bolts. Stop the cycle, spread the load evenly, and check that all four feet sit firmly on the floor. If it still bangs with a balanced load, or roars and grinds as it speeds up, the suspension or the tub bearings need a technician. We don't take these repairs on Whirlpool, Maytag and Kenmore top-loaders.
Washer still shaking? A technician can often come the same day in Chino and nearby cities. $75 diagnostic, applied to the repair.
Below are the eight causes we see most often across the Inland Empire and the San Gabriel Valley, in the order to check them, what each one sounds like, and when to book washer repair in Chino.
The eight causes
- Unbalanced or bunched load
- Overloaded drum, or a load that's too small
- Washer not level, or a loose foot
- Shipping bolts still in a new washer
- A soft floor, a loose pedestal or a washer touching the wall
- Coins or an underwire caught in the drum or pump
- Worn shock absorbers, dampers or suspension rods
- Worn tub bearings or a broken drum spider
1. Unbalanced or bunched load
Most violent washer shaking starts with the load, not the machine. One heavy item on its own (a bath mat, a comforter, a pair of jeans) or sheets twisted into a rope put the weight on one side of the drum, and at full spin speed that weight throws the tub against its springs and the cabinet. Washers try to rebalance by slowing down and tumbling, but a load that's tangled tight can't spread back out.
Signs it's an unbalanced load:
- The shaking started with a particular load, such as bedding, rugs or towels
- It's worst as the spin speeds up, or the washer stops and tumbles to rebalance
- Mixed loads of everyday clothes spin quietly
Can you fix it yourself? Yes, and it's the first thing to try.
- Pause the cycle and wait for the lid or door to unlock.
- Untangle the load and spread it evenly around the drum.
- Pair a single heavy item with a few towels so its weight has something to balance against.
- Restart the spin. If the washer then stops spinning altogether, see washer not spinning.
2. Overloaded drum, or a load that's too small
An overloaded washer can't let the clothes shift into balance, so the same lump rides around the drum all cycle. LG recommends filling the tub to about two-thirds of its capacity. A very small load causes the opposite problem: two wet towels slap to one side with nothing to even them out. Samsung adds that squealing or grinding with a packed drum usually means overloading, and that you should stop the cycle and take some items out.
Signs it's the load size:
- Clothes are packed to the top, or the door or lid barely closes
- Only two or three heavy items were in the drum
- A squeal or grinding sound with a very full drum
Can you fix it yourself? Yes. Split big loads and add a few towels to small ones.
3. Washer not level, or a loose foot
A washer standing on three feet rocks with every turn of the drum, and the rocking builds until the whole machine walks across the floor. Feet also work loose over time if their lock nuts aren't tightened against the cabinet, so a washer that was level on installation day may not be now.
Signs it's the leveling:
- The washer rocks when you press down on opposite top corners
- It has moved away from the wall or toward the dryer
- It shakes just as much with small, balanced loads
Can you fix it yourself? Yes.
- Unplug the washer and set a level on top, front to back and side to side.
- Loosen the lock nut on the foot you need to adjust.
- Turn the foot to raise or lower that corner until the washer stops rocking and all four feet touch the floor.
- Tighten the lock nuts so the feet hold their height.
- If the washer sits on a pedestal or riser, level that first.
4. Shipping bolts still in a new washer Front-load
New front-load washers ship with bolts that lock the tub to the back of the cabinet so it can't swing in transit. If they stay in, the tub can't move on its suspension, and the first spin shakes the whole machine. LG's vibration guide (opens in a new tab) warns that leftover shipping bolts and retainers lead to severe vibration and noise, and some models also ship with a foam block under the tub that has to come out.
Signs it's the shipping bolts:
- The washer is new, or was just moved and reinstalled
- It shook violently from the very first spin
- Bolt heads or plastic spacers are still visible in the back panel
Can you fix it yourself? Yes.
- Unplug the washer.
- Open the door and push the drum. A drum on its suspension gives and bounces slightly; one that feels locked in place still has its bolts in.
- Remove the bolts from the back panel with a wrench, along with any spacers attached to them, and cap the holes with the covers supplied with the washer.
- Keep the bolts in case you move the washer later.
5. A soft floor, a loose pedestal or a washer touching the wall
A wood-framed floor flexes under a spinning washer and turns small wobbles into big ones, which is why the same machine can be quiet on a garage slab and loud in an upstairs laundry room. A pedestal or stacking kit with loose bolts adds its own rattle, and a washer touching the wall, the dryer or a cabinet bangs against it with every turn.
Signs it's the floor or the surroundings:
- The floor, nearby shelves or the dryer shake along with the washer
- A rattle from the pedestal, the stacking kit or a nearby cabinet
- The washer is upstairs or on a wood floor
Can you fix it yourself? Often. Pull the washer about an inch away from the wall and the dryer, tighten the pedestal or stacking-kit bolts, and set it on a solid anti-vibration pad if the floor flexes. A floor that visibly bounces may need reinforcing by a contractor.
6. Coins or an underwire caught in the drum or pump
Not every loud washer noise is shaking. Coins, keys, buttons and bra underwires slip through the holes in the drum and rattle between the drum and the outer tub, or reach the drain pump and grind there. The sound is usually a metallic clatter or scrape that comes and goes as the drum turns, rather than a deep thump.
Signs it's a loose object:
- A metallic rattle or scrape that changes as the drum turns
- Grinding or rattling from the pump area during the drain
- Something small went into the wash in a pocket
Can you fix it yourself? Sometimes. Check pockets before every load, run your hand around the drum and the door seal, and on a front-loader clean the pump filter, where small objects usually end up; the steps are in washer not draining. Something trapped between the drum and the tub needs a technician to reach it.
7. Worn shock absorbers, dampers or suspension rods
A washer's tub hangs on a suspension that absorbs the motion of the spin: shock absorbers or dampers under the tub on most front-loaders, and suspension rods or springs from the top corners on many top-loaders. As those parts wear, the tub swings farther on every spin until it knocks against the cabinet. A tub that sits low on one side, or keeps bouncing after you push it down, is a strong clue.
Signs it's the suspension:
- Loud banging against the cabinet even with balanced loads
- The tub sits lower on one side, or keeps bouncing after you push it
- The shaking has gotten slowly worse over months
Can you fix it yourself? No. Dampers and suspension rods are usually replaced as a set, and reaching them means unplugging the washer and removing panels, so a technician should check them along with the bearings.
8. Worn tub bearings or a broken drum spider
When the bearings that carry a washer's drum shaft wear out, the spin develops a deep rumble or roar that rises with the speed, and the drum starts to wobble. On front-loaders this usually follows a worn tub seal that let water reach the bearing, so you may also find rust streaks or a leak under the washer (see washer leaking water). On older front-loaders, the drum spider, the metal bracket that holds the drum to its shaft, can corrode and crack, which turns a rumble into loud banging.
Signs it's the bearings or the spider:
- A roar, rumble or grind that gets louder as the spin speeds up
- With the washer unplugged, the drum feels loose or clunks when you rock it by hand
- Rust-colored streaks or water under the washer
Can you fix it yourself? No. A bearing or spider repair means taking the tub apart, and a technician should check the drum and the tub first so you can decide whether the repair is worth it on that washer.
Shaking, banging or grinding: what is the noise telling you?
The sound, and the moment it starts, narrow the cause down quickly:
| What you hear or see | Most likely cause | Start here |
|---|---|---|
| Thumping or banging that started with one load | Unbalanced load | Pause, spread the load out, restart the spin |
| The washer rocks or walks across the floor | Unlevel washer or a loose foot | Level it and tighten the lock nuts |
| Violent shaking from the first spin of a new washer | Shipping bolts | Remove the bolts from the back panel |
| Squealing or grinding with a packed drum | Overloading | Stop the cycle and take some items out |
| A metallic rattle that comes and goes | Coins or an underwire | Check the drum, the door seal and the pump filter |
| Banging on every spin, the tub hits the cabinet | Worn suspension | Book a technician |
| A roar or rumble that rises with spin speed | Worn tub bearings | Stop using the washer and book a technician |
For a squeal or grind you can't place, Samsung's noise guide (opens in a new tab) suggests a simple test: run a cycle with about four soaking-wet bath towels, and if the noise comes back, the washer needs service.
How much shaking is normal on the spin cycle?
Some movement is normal. The tub is built to swing on its springs and dampers while the cabinet stays put, so you'll see the drum move and feel a hum through the floor at top speed. Samsung describes a click followed by a short knock, as the washer switches from washing to spinning, as normal. A cabinet that walks, a tub that hits the cabinet, or a noise that gets louder from week to week is not.
What to check yourself first
- Stop the cycle. Pause it and wait for the lid or door to unlock before you reach in.
- Rebalance the load. Untangle it, spread it out, and pair a heavy item with a few towels.
- Check the feet. Rock the washer by its corners, adjust any foot that lifts, and tighten the lock nuts.
- Look for shipping bolts. On a new front-loader, check the back panel for bolts or spacers.
- Give it room. Move the washer about an inch away from the wall, the dryer and cabinets.
- Empty the pockets. If you hear rattling, check the drum, the door seal and the pump filter.
One safety note: unplug the washer before you push the drum, check for shipping bolts or reach into the door seal, and never open the lid or door while the drum is still turning.
When to call a technician
- It shakes or bangs on balanced loads with the washer level
- The tub knocks against the cabinet or sags to one side
- You hear a roar, rumble or grind that rises with the spin speed
- The shaking comes with a leak or rust streaks under the washer
- The washer still walks after you level it and tighten the feet
Sounds like yours? A technician can diagnose it at home in Chino and nearby cities, often the same day. $75 diagnostic, applied to the repair.
Era Service repairs suspension, bearing and drive problems on front-load and top-load washers across the Inland Empire and the San Gabriel Valley, often the same day in Chino and nearby cities. We don't repair shaking or grinding-noise problems on Whirlpool, Maytag and Kenmore top-load washers.
Good to Know
Washer Shaking or Banging: FAQ
A washer shakes hardest when the load is unbalanced, when the washer isn't level, or when it's new and the shipping bolts are still in. A floor that flexes and a washer touching the wall make it worse. If the shaking continues with an even load and level feet, worn shock absorbers, suspension rods or tub bearings come next, and those need a technician.
Violent shaking on the spin cycle means the drum's weight is off center at high speed, usually from one heavy or tangled item. Stop the cycle, spread the load and restart the spin. A brand-new front-loader that shakes from its first spin most likely still has its shipping bolts in, and an older washer that has slowly gotten worse may have worn suspension parts.
A loud thump or bang during the spin is usually an unbalanced load or a washer that isn't level. A metallic rattle often means coins or an underwire are loose in the drum, and a roar that rises with the spin speed points to worn tub bearings. Squealing with a packed drum usually means it's overloaded: stop the cycle and take some items out.
A grinding noise most often comes from a small object caught in the drain pump or between the drum and the tub, from an overloaded drum, or from tub bearings that are wearing out. Check pockets, the door seal and the pump filter first. Grinding that gets louder as the drum speeds up, especially with a leak, is a bearing problem for a technician.
Banging during the spin cycle means the tub is hitting the cabinet, or the cabinet is hitting something nearby. Rebalance the load and pull the washer an inch away from walls and the dryer. If it bangs on balanced loads, the shock absorbers, dampers or suspension rods have likely worn out, and on older front-loaders a cracked drum spider can do the same.
A washer that's shaking and making a loud noise is safe to run only long enough to check the load and the leveling. Left as it is, the shaking can loosen the hoses, damage the floor and wear out the suspension and bearings faster. If the noise is a roar, a grind or a bang on every spin, stop using the washer until a technician has checked it.
Washer shaking the whole house? Let's settle it down.
Open 7 days a week, 9 AM to 6 PM, with a 2-hour arrival window across Chino, the Inland Empire, the San Gabriel Valley and North Orange County. Every repair carries a 90-day parts and labor warranty from Era Service.
Related articles
Washer Not Spinning?
Clothes come out soaking: unbalanced loads, the lid lock, the belt and the motor.
Read the guide →Washer Leaking Water?
Puddles under the washer: hoses, the door seal, the pump and the tub.
Read the guide →Washer Not Draining?
Water left in the drum: the pump filter, the drain hose and the pump.
Read the guide →Repairing a specific brand? LG repair, Samsung repair.